Ich bin ein Amerikaner

My first week observing and helping out at a local, traditional bakery in Germany coincided with Fasching/Carnival.  Apparently, this means that the locals gorge themselves on Pfannekuchen, which are also known as jelly doughnuts or Berliners.  And, you may recall, that it was JFK who famously claimed to be a jelly doughnut in a speech he gave in Berlin: Ich bin ein Berliner.  His mistake was including “ein” or, in English, “a” – he obviously meant he was one of them.

It was while the hot oil of freshly fried pastry burned my fingertips while making hundreds of Pfannekuchen that I wondered about the doughnuts I see in bakeries that have spoken to me: Amerikaners.  It is these flat disks topped with icing that I almost always purchase when I see them.  Why?  Because I find them to be ironic, and I’m generally a sarcastic person.  So, naturally, I asked and was shown how these desserts are made and learned a bit about their history along the way.

There is no clear reason why these pastries are called “Amerikaners”, but a good guess is one of the unique ingredients: ammonium bicarbonate. The key ingredient in ‘Amerikaners’ is ammonium bicarbonate. In researching ammonium bicarbonate, I learned that it was a precursor to sodium bicarbonate, which is more commonly known as baking powder.  Once baking powder became mass produced and widely available, ammonium bicarbonate fell out of favor being replaced (in a 1-to-1 substitute in recipes) with baking powder.  However, it is these Amerikaners that still contain this very distinctive ingredient when made in traditional bakeries.  It is also this ingredient that polarizes people sensitive to the taste/smell of ammonia.

Also, there is an interesting aside on these pastries.  As I am living in old East Germany, I was told that the strained relationship between the GDR and the US was such that the pastry’s name was changed to “Ammonplätzchen” or simply “Ammon”.  This is not too dissimilar to those delicious “Freedom Fries” and “Freedom Toast” enjoyed quite a few years ago.

Amerikaner Ingredients:

• 150g Margarine
• 2 Eggs
• 250g Sugar
• 60g Ammonium Bicarbonate
• 750g Flour
• 500mL Milk
• A bit of lemon juice for flavor
• Bake 220°C to 240°C (425°F to 465°F) for 10 minutes

When they are taken out of the oven, the smell of ammonia will be a bit overwhelming.  It will be wise to flip them over and let them air out before applying the fondant (or any sugar-based icing).  Know that the hint of ammonia is part of the enjoyment.  And they are quite delicious.

For those interested, it is the heat that decomposes the ammonium bicarbonate into ammonia, water, and carbon dioxide.  It is the carbon dioxide that causes the dough to rise.  And it is the waiting after baking that eliminates the ammonia, which is a toxic in large quantities…